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Miscellaneous Mustang Info


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Quick glossary of terms:

There are lots of terms and acronyms that make "Mustangese" difficult for the uninitiated. The following list is by no means comprehensive, but will hopefully be enough to get you going:



Ford's 2.3 liter OHC inline 4-cylinder motor. Available for all years 1979-1993. Turbocharged versions of this motor were first introduced in 1979 but were quickly withdrawn due to reliability problems. The turbos came back in the early Eighties, with the turbocharged and intercooled version found in the SVO Mustang being the most powerful version used.



Ford's 2.8 liter displacement V6 engine. Available 1979-1986?



For late-model Mustang purposes, the same thing as the 5.0L (302 cubic- inches approximately equaling 5.0 liters).



Also known as the 255, a de-stroked, de-bored version of the 302 that has no performance potential whatsoever. However, a 302 will drop right in its place. Yank the 4.2L and send it to the recycler to be made into something far more worthwhile, like razor blades.



Ford's 5.0 liter displacement V8 engine. The most popular motor for late-model Mustangs. Available for 1979-1980 and 1983-1994.



Refers to the 7.5" rear-end used in earlier 5.0L Mustangs and all 4 and 6 cylinder Mustangs (not sure if this applies to the 1994 cars).



Refers to the 8.8" rear-end used in later 5.0L Mustangs. This unit is stronger than the 7.5" rear.



Automatic OverDrive trasmission.



"Central Fuel Injection", refers to a fuel metering system in which fuel is injected into the incoming air at a single point, after which the airflow is split up for individual cylinders (in contrast to multiport fuel injection). Visually the system bears some resemblance to a carburetor, but the fuel metering is under electronic control. Used on some cars in the 1984-86 time frame.



In the late model Mustang world, refers to the highest-performance version of the Mustang available from the factory in 1993-94. Cobra Mustangs have engine, braking, and suspension differences from other Mustangs. "Cobra" is also used to refer to the version of the intake manifold used on the 1993 Mustang Cobra, also known as the GT-41. Originally referred to Carroll Shelby's Ford-powered race cars of the 1960's. If you like Cobra style wheels you can find Mustang Cobra rims at AmericanMuscle



Ford's "Electronic Engine Control" computer, version number four. Used on all 5.0 EFI equipped Mustangs from 1986 to 1994. Some earlier CFI cars may have used the previous version (EEC-III). Most Ford vehicles are now switching over to the EEC-V.



"Electronic Fuel Injection", typically used to refer to multiport fuel injected cars.



"Exhaust Gas Recirculation" Refers to a valve used to pull exhaust gasses back into the intake manifold to reduce emissions.



Ford's "Fox" chassis, which has been used for multiple cars including the 1979-1994 Mustangs (other "Fox"-derived cars were the Fairmont, most of the 1980's Thunderbirds, and the Lincoln Mark VII). A large number of components can be swapped between the various "Fox" cars, leading to interesting modifications on a budget.



In the late model Mustang world, refers to a version of the 5.0L V8 with higher-performance components than other 5.0's. Originally referred to Ford's Production GT racing cars from the late 1960's.



"Mass Air Flow" Refers to a system in which the actual airflow into the engine is measured, as opposed to a speed-density system. This term is often used both to describe the entire system or the MAF sensor which actually does the measuring. All 1989+ 5.0 Mustangs, as well as 1988 Mustangs destined for California, use a MAF system.


Modular V8

New family of overhead-cam Ford V8 engines. The Mustang has long been rumoured to be a recipient of this engine, as the 5.0L engine will not be able to meet stricter emissions requirements in the future. This engine is currently available at a 4.6 liter displacement in single-overhead cam (approx. 210 hp) and double-overhead cam (approx. 280 hp), as compared to the 5.0L's 205 hp. However, the modular motor produces less torque than the 5.0L and the powerband is shifted further up the RPM range. The modular V8 is a very complex motor that will require more sophisticated hot-rodding techniques. It's also quite expensive. These factors will probably mean that the modular V8 will not become the panacea for Mustang performance. Expect one of the versions of the modular V8 to appear in the Mustang in the 1996 model year (or possibly late in 1995).


Multiport Fuel Injection

A fuel metering system in which each cylinder has a separate injector.



System in which the amount of air entering the engine is estimated based on several other inputs (such as manifold pressure). The estimate is based on assumptions about the engine in use, so engine mods are more likely to confuse a speed-density system than a MAF system. 1986-1988 5.0L Mustangs used speed-density systems (except 1988 cars destined for California, which used MAF).



Ford's 4speed (three speed overdrive) transmission used in the 1979 and 1982 to early 1983 5.0 mustangs. SROD stands for Single Rail Over Drive.



Refers either to Ford's Special Vehicle Operations group or to the SVO Mustang, a 1984-1986 version of the Mustang that was the brainchild of this group. In contrast to the V8 Mustangs, the SVO used a turbocharged and intercooled 2.3 liter 4-cylinder engine. Aside from the 1993 Mustang Cobra, it was the only 1979-1993 Mustang to come from the factory with 4-wheel disc brakes.



Ford's "Special Vehicle Team". Responsible for the Mustang Cobra and "Lightning" pickup truck.



Borg-Warner T5 5-speed manual transmission. Used on Mustangs from 1983?- 1994.



Throttle Position Sensor. A potentiometer used to inform the EEC-IV how far the throttle is open.



Refers to the limited-slip type differential used in performance Mustangs. The purpose of the differential is to allow the rear wheels to turn at different speeds when going around a corner. A Traction-Lok diff will limit the allowable difference in speeds between the two wheels, while a normal (or "open") differential has no such limits (if one tire has completely lost traction, it will spin merrily while the tire on the other side sits still). The Traction-Lok is often referred to as the "Traction- Slop" as the factory spec allows it to lose much of its effectiveness through wear and yet still be "in spec".



Short for "Wide open Throttle." What happens when you floor the long pedal on the right.





86-93 Mustang fuel pump replacement:

This job takes about an hour and a half unless the tank strap bolts are rusted which will add some additional time.  It is not hard and only requires common tools.  This job is easier if there is a ¼ tank of gas or less in the tank. 

  1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  2. Jack the rear of the car up under the rear axle and place jack stands under each side of the rear axle.  Make sure the car is high enough so you can swing the tank straps down to get the tank out. 
  3. Remove the 3 screws inside fuel fill door. Remove the screw that attaches the filler tube bracket to the fuel tank.
  4. Loosen the tank strap bolts. Use penetrating oil if necessary.
  5. Once you break the bolts loose, slide the floor jack under the center of the tank. Use a block of wood to lift so you don’t dent the tank. With the tank supported, remove the tank strap bolts.
  6. Lower the tank slightly and disconnect the electrical connectors and fuel lines.
  7. Wiggle the filler tube out of the tank. This may require you to do a combination of wiggling and lowering to get the filler tube completely out.  Be careful when you do get the filler tube out as the tank might want to lean to one side or the other.
  8. Clean the top of the tank to keep dirt and debris from getting into the tank when you remove the fuel pump assembly. An air gun works great for this.  On top of the passenger side of the tank there will be a red electrical plug towards the rear of the car and the two metal lines facing the front of the car. You can take off the electrical plug by using a screwdriver to pry on the catch clip between the plug and the metal lines. The clips on the metal lines are two different types. One is identical to the fuel filter clips. The other has two tabs that need to be depressed. The clip comes out the end of the holder and stays around the metal line.
  9. The pump assembly is held in with a large locking ring. It has 4 tabs sticking up. There are three bent over tabs that hold it on and the notches you have to rotate it to in order to remove it. Use a hammer and brass drift on one of the tabs to rotate the ring counterclockwise. You can use a steel drift or socket extension but I prefer to use something that will not spark around a gas tank….  A screwdriver won’t work because it will just bent the tab. Once the ring is off the pump assembly should be loose and ready to come out. It has a "z" shape to it and takes some wiggling to remove.
  10. Now install new pump in the assembly and then install the assembly in the tank in the reverse order that you removed it.




AOD TV Cable Adjustment:

FORD AOD Automatic Overdrive

The AOD transmission may feel like it is shifting at the right time when the TV cable is actually way off. This can cause poor performance and transmission failure. Here is how to adjust the TV cable properly.

1. Lift tab up to unlock adjustment assembly.
2. Have someone push the accelerator pedal to the floor. While the pedal is floored, push on the throttle body arm to make sure it's bottomed out and actually wide open throttle. (Adjust throttle cable, if necessary).
3. While the pedal is to the floor, lock the tab on TV adjuster.
4. Mark this spot tight to the adjustment assembly with a knife or other thin marking device. This is the MAX TV mark.
5. Unlock the tab and slide housing towards bare cable 5/16" and lock tab. You can use a 5/16" bolt as a gauge. Make another mark up tight against adjustment assembly. This is the MIN TV mark.
6. Make another mark midway between MAX and MIN. This is MID-mark.
7. Adjust to MID-mark and road test.


FORD AOD Automatic Overdrive


1. Pull/push TV cable and block assembly out of throttle arm rubber grommet.
2. Have someone push the accelerator pedal to the floor. While the pedal is floored, push on the throttle body arm to make sure it's bottomed out and actually wide open throttle. (Adjust throttle cable, if necessary).
3. Push the locking tab up through the adjustment block, with a pocket screwdriver, so that the locking tab is standing up next to clevis pin as shown in the picture.
4. While someone is holding' the accelerator pedal to the floor:
Pull the cable rail HARD towards the end of the cable with one hand, at the same time engage the clevis firmly into the throttle arm grommet.
Engaging the clevis automatically locks the tab by pushing it into the block.
5. Pull the block adjustment assembly out of the grommet:
Make a mark, on the rail, with a hacksaw blade or knife up against adjustment block.
This is the MAX TV mark.
6. Make another mark 5/16" from the max mark out on the rail. (Use a 5/16 pan bolt for a gauge.) This is MIN TV mark.
7. Make another mark midway between MAX mark and MIN mark. This mark is
average or MID-mark.
8. Unlock the adjustment tab. Set on MID-mark and lock tab. (Push it down into block.)
Install into throttle arm grommet and road test.

In manual "3" it must have 3-2 kickdown at 50 mph (passenger cars).
CARB AND THROTTLE BODY INJECTOR MODELS: Seem to work best with setting
between MIN and MID.
PORT INJECTION MODELS (Standard): Start with a setting just under MID.
HIGH OUTPUT Port injection models: Start with setting just a hair over MID
Adding TV to attempt to correct pinging, chugging or lugging won't work. It Just causes thumps, bumps and extra wear. Set the TV so that the shifts are smooth and not late.

FORD AOD Automatic Overdrive

1. Remove the air cleaner. Have someone floor the gas pedal from inside the car while you bend the THROTTLE cable bracket until the butterfly arm bottoms solidly on it's stop.
2. Turn the adjustment screw IN until 13 threads are sticking out the front of the adjuster arm. (Approx. 7/16")
3. Start the engine with the AIR OFF and leave it OFF.
4. While the engine is idling, loosen the adjustment bolt on the arm on the side of the transmission with a 13mm socket one full turn. Push the arm up (towards the top of the vehicle) and gently tighten the bolt.
5. Now go back to the top adjustment and back off 13 turns.
6. Now ROAD TEST. Place the selector in the '3' position and cruise at 45 mph. Floor the throttle, you will have no 3-2 kickdown. Turn the adjuster screw in exactly one turn at a time until you have kickdown at 45 mph. Then, turn the screw in 3 more turns. You will be in the middle of the TV adjustment.
7. Now ROAD TEST for shift feel and timing. You can adjust in or out up to 2 turns to improve shift quality.
8. Replace the air cleaner.



Click image for exploded view